Field notes

Guides, essays, and dispatches

Everything published, most recent first: filed under the three pillars. Filter to what you came for.

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Annatto seeds, the source of bixin, the pigment that colors food more often than cloth today
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Craft, Dye Series Part Six · August 31, 2026

Built for Color, Part Six: Yellow & Orange: The Difficulty of Sunshine

A history of dyes that burned bright, faded fast, and left too little behind.

TCB Baggy 50's jeans in raw indigo denim with a roomy thigh and slight taper.

Craft · August 1, 2026

The Best Jeans for Men With Big Thighs

Why most "athletic fit" jeans miss the point, and the ten denim cuts — ranked by real thigh-to-waist ratios from the Fit Finder database — that actually work.

Roy Slaper seated among the sewing machines in his Oakland workshop

Culture · July 20, 2026

The Man Who Slept in the Closet

Roy Slaper, 1971–2026: the fabricator who emptied his apartment for sewing machines and built ROY Denim entirely by hand.

A pair of well-worn washed denim, presented at the Indigo Invitational

Culture · July 18, 2026

The Authenticity Trap of Raw Denim

How "no-wash" culture turned a pair of jeans into a test of commitment instead of an appreciation for craftsmanship.

A rack of denim garments with a tape measure, illustrating the practice of measuring garments directly rather than trusting the size tag

Craft · July 15, 2026

The Size Tag Never Tells the Full Story

I built a database of 2,600+ actual denim measurements so you can stop gambling $300 on your next pair. Here's how it works, how to use it, and where it's going.

Close-up of dyed wool fiber, showing color absorbed before spinning into yarn

Craft, Dye Series Part Three · July 12, 2026

Dyed in the Wool

Why two garments the same color can wear completely differently: a guide to every stage of dyeing, from loose fiber to finished garment.

Peacock motif on kalamkari cloth, dyed using mordant and tannin techniques

Craft, Dye Series Part Two · July 5, 2026

A Tale of Two Fibers

Why Wool and Silk Hold Color that Cotton Can't: the tannin bath that lets cotton borrow wool's trick, and why indigo never really bonds to your jeans at all.

Dried indigo leaves and pigment, still after processing

Craft, Dye Series Part One · June 29, 2026

The Hidden Work Behind Natural Dyes

Why indigo takes 50 dips in a vat and mordant dyes take one: the chemistry of bonding, trapping, and the dyes that don't need either.

Illustration by Anna Haifisch for Highsnobiety on high-waisted trousers

Becoming · June 7, 2026

The Rise and Fall (and Rise) of Rise

A history of high-waisted trousers, from Scythian horsemen to Y2K low-rise, and a complicated reckoning with body, fit, and rise.

Storefront of Mildblend Supply Co. in Chicago

Culture · June 25, 2026

Chicago Menswear Shopping Guide

A neighborhood-by-neighborhood guide to the city's best menswear shops: Japanese denim, military surplus, made-to-measure shirts, vintage tailoring. Addresses, directions, and a map.

Municipal rugby tee laid flat for a fabric and construction comparison

Becoming · May 30, 2026

Everything I Purchased in May

A monthly confession of my sins: 19 pieces, one very dangerous eBay livestream, and a running argument with the responsible version of me.

An old personal photo referenced in the essay on selvedge and self-worth

Becoming · May 25, 2026

Selvedge and Self-Worth: An Introduction

A bigger guy's journey through fashion, raw denim, and dressing with intention, and why no one should have to wait until they're a different person to dress like themselves.

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